How to: Tyres

REAR TIRE
The tire profile is every rider's own choice and you can't really tell the most common size. Generally most of a park and dirt riders uses smaller tire profiles because of lower rolling resistance. Between street riders it is common to have both front and rear tires profile the same. Preffered tread pattern for park/street riding is slick/semi-slick and rough pattern for dirt riding.

FRONT TIRE
Front tire profile is usually bigger than the rear and features a slick/semi-slick tread pattern for park/street riders and rough tread pattern for dirt riders, however as we have already mentioned, the profiles of front and rear tires for modern street riders are mostly equal therefore the rules are nearly the same as for rear tires.

For park riding where the final weight of your bike is the key thing, we recommend you to use the folding tires. Just don't forget to keep them inflatted to the maximum pressure (psi) at all times. Otherwise they will get easily damaged.

Street riders better stick with the old classic wire tires. The weight is slightly higher than the folding ones, but you won't have to buy a new one every other month or two (stronger side walls, more resistant againts damage caused by grinding).

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1. What is the right pressure for folding tires?

The main reason of folding tire damage is insufficient air pressure. Always make yourself sure the minimum pressure is at least 6bars / 90psi but not higher than 8bar / 120psi. 

Caution: Folding tires have to be protected againts the strong sunshine!

2. Is this tyre compatible with my frame?
When you are about to buy your new tire, read the description carefully and pay attention to the line “inflatted width”. Nearly all of the tires in our stock have got this number stated and once you know it, it is easy to find out whether it fits or not. All you will need is something to measure with such as meter, ruler or folding meter stick.


Procedure:
1. At first put on your rear wheel with inflatted tire and make it slammed in the dropouts. Unless you already know the inflatted width of your tire, either try to find it online or measure it yourself. 

2. Seatstay tubing of every frame is usually narrower than chainstay so take a look at your rear end from above and find the narrowest/critical spot between the tire and chainstay tubing. Create a little mark right at this spot and take of the tire. This will allow you to measure the distance between the marked spots. Once you have done it just subtract the “Inflatted width” of a tire you want to buy from the result of your previous measuring. The final result has to be at least 1cm or more.

Note: In case your wheel doesn`t have tire anymore, just put in on in the same way as mentioned above (slammed in dropouts) and try to imagine tire`s position while looking from above. Mark the critical/narrowest spot on both sides and measure it`s distance, the rest is same as in point 2.


BRAKE USERS
Brake arms are always more narrow than seat stay tubing thus it is determining the maximum size of a tire you can put on. Nowadays it is common for nearly all of a brake producers to have the “maximum tire size” stated in their product description although it`s not always there. 

While looking at your rear end from above it is obvious that brake arms are more narrow than seatstay/chainstay tubing (depends on where do you have brake mounts). All you need is to know your current tire`s inflatted width and inflatted diameter before you put the wheel on. Once your wheel with inflatted tire is on, take a meter and measure the distance between brake arms and tire. In case you already know the inflatted width/diameter of a tire you would like to buy, just compare it with the results of your measuring and that`s it.

Most tires have not only “inflatted width” stated in it`s description, but an “inflatted diameter” too. For all tires that doesn`t have this number stated, there is one rule saying that whatever is added to the sides will be added to the final diameter as well.